3/6/0/10 This morning, we spoke with Brenda, our camp host, to get a little history of the area, Holly Beach, La. She and her husband bought this little RV camp in 2005 just before Hurricane Rita destroyed it in September of that year. They rebuilt things just in time for Hurricane Ike , which struck in September 2008. That storm brought them 11’ of water. They rebuilt again. They are now prepared to haul everything off their property if necessary; picnic tables, 3 big campers, storage shed, ice machine. She tracks the weather closely, always. Brenda says there had not been a destructive storm in Holly Beach since the 50’s. She also says it used to be a place that mostly poor people lived. Now there are very nice homes here, although they still do not have a store. It’s fascinating to us to note that there are ONLY new houses here, no old ones at all. She says that today; March 6, is the nicest day they have had all year. There are a few clouds drifting over a blue sky and it is in the high 50’s this morning. It has been very cold and windy and freezing a lot on this gulf coast tiny community this winter. She believes that the cold weather will help to cool the gulf water, thereby lessening the chance for serious storms. If the water is cooler, the storms are less severe, according to her.
We are driving on Hwy 82 along the coast line in the bayou. Oh, there is trash everywhere. From California on, we’ve seen so much trash along the roads. It becomes depressing. It is such a statement about how we care for our planet as a culture. We have so much to learn from our native ancestors about caring for our planet. The plastic may well take us down !
If we can look past the trash, the wildlife is abundant, although we all know the mounds of plastic is destructive to our 4 legged, 2 legged and winged relatives.
We see heron, snowy egrets, alligators, turtles, pelicans, cows and small homesteads driving through this interesting landscape. Sometimes the cattle are in the yards of homes. Once, I saw a cow looking in the front window of the house !
We also see upturned abandoned boats on the shore, cars on their sides rusting in the reeds, alongside newly constructed houses on pilings. The big old live oaks apparently withstand the storms. It’s clear they have been around for a long long time. We continue to see cypress groves, and now I can spot those cypress knees sticking out of the water. On we go to New Orleans.
3/8/10 This is our third and final evening in New Orleans. We arrived at the French Quarter RV park about 4:00pm three days ago. We had been told this place was 2 blocks from the French Quarter, and right off Basin Street, so thought we would take a chance. I must admit I was not too keen on the whole concept of RV parks in the beginning, as I did not see us preferring the “parking lot” type of existence. This time, it was great. And I do have a newly found respect for them as we travel across the country. Sometimes, it is really helpful to find a place like this.
(We use our transgendered Gypsy ( GPS who recently became a man after previously existing as a woman, at least in voice, which is he/she’s major form of info transfer to us), our maps, the Western Cheap Campsite book from the South-Johnson duo and the famous Woodall fat book to guide us to the best spot. We usually plan just a few days ahead of our arrival. )
Anyway, I digress. We were within walking distance of the quarter, safe, and it was a relatively inexpensive way to be in this city. FQRV was close off the freeway, in fact we parked under 2 huge billboards ! It was a small park, and gated for security reasons, and I got to soak a couple of times in a steaming hot tub. This all really did not matter, because we were not hanging around here much at all, only to take breaks and sleep.
Our first night in NOLA, we innocently walked through the streets, not knowing at all what we might find. We found narrow cobbled streets and side walks, shuttered windows, in a seemingly old and strange land. Where are we ? We heard it before we saw it…. A low rumble of sound. We turned the corner onto Bourbon Street ! A feast of people, color, sound, neon, smells. From where did all these people come ?
We found ourselves quickly in the midst of a loud Italian parade welcoming us to the city. The beads were flying and we easily got a stash tucked on Tim’s neck. We found a balcony and ate dinner watching over the parade. Our first evening was one of gawking and laughing and listening to music wherever we happened to find it. We were amazed at the caliber of musicians in almost every place we went. Tim especially loved all the guitar players showing off their stuff. He says a couple of those guys actually reduced ( expanded ?) him to tears.
Walking from music venue to grab a bite and scrounging the voo-doo shops for trinkets.
Walking down Royal Street, with the sunshine drifting through the metal scrollwork balconies, the streets full of color with the French Quarter Buildings, and the sky scrapers in the near distance, a completely different land, gray and white.
Hanging out in Pirate’s Alley beside St. Louis Cathedral. A new book from the Faulknor Book Store, and an absinthe at the Pirate’s Alley Café. (It was pretty tame, but we did fantasize about living in a place with an address like 623 Pirate’s Alley, New Orleans, La.)
Standing in line for 90 minutes for a sweet 50 minute set at Preservation Hall. This place was like peaking in to the juke joint in the movie “Color Purple” only with no booze, just the music, It had that aura to me. We listened to some wizened jazz players here, sitting on chairs in front of us with no amplification at all. Sax and trombone and sweet sweet gentle drums, and clarinet and piano. What a treat that was.
Listening to the trumpet and sax at Maison Bourbon.
Catching that zydeco music for a while.
Walking into the Erin Rose, and sipping a shot of maker’s for her and her daddy.
Haunting around at the VooDoo Museum in a thunder storm
Eating and drinking hot toddies, Irish coffees, café aulaits, begniats, shrimp, crayfish, pralines.
Listening to people talk about eating alligator and nutria ( Apparently, nutria were introduced in this country in New Orleans, as a cheap source of food and fur. They got out of control and spread quickly. The person I spoke with was surprised that in Oregon we are familiar with them.
“Be Nice or Leave” t shirts and stickers.
I bought Tim a NOPD hat. It’s cool.
We loved this place, walking in the quiet clean mornings, or the noisy smoky nights, or the sun filtered afternoons…….it’s another one of those gathering places that touch my soul, like OCF. The old old buildings and culture within the walls. In New Orleans, buildings do not get torn down and replaced, they just wait. There is a sense of true longevity and endurance there.
Between FQRV and FQ was a blighted area with a massive deserted store and accompanying overly large parking lot. We noticed NOPD parked in the lot sometimes and wondered. We got the story that the previous Winn-Dixie store, which was getting a little run down, was looted after Katrina. Winn-Dixie basically took their insurance money and split. The cops are a presence there because they attempt to keep the “hoodlums” out of the area. You stay away from these parts of town, we leave you alone. Who knows.
We took a little van tour for a few hours to get oriented to the city a bit. That included going into the 9th and 7th wards to get a glimpse of the damages and rebuilding efforts. There were many places with slabs and concrete steps, nothing else, and there were houses that still had the National Guard notes spray painted on the front of them, telling when the house was checked and what was found inside. We saw houses that were no longer inhabitable and we saw some that have been repaired and are inhabited. We can only imagine what the place looked like when the water was high and then receded.
We saw where the now repaired levee broke, because the barges in the ship channel smashed into it. We freaked at thinking that even that concrete wall could possibly keep back the waters. Our guide told us that there were tsunami size waves from Lake Ponchartrain pouring over the city.
The size of the city has decreased by about ½. So many people displaced and will never be able to return home. Everyone we talked to had their own story… it was if the whole town could be suffering from mass PTSD.
We visited Brad Pitt’s project, Make It Happen Homes, a small by growing number of homes being built with green construction, on pilings, with bright colors and unique designs. Small modest, cool little places. We also drove through musician’s village, equally small homes built with the help of Harry Connick Jr. we saw no FEMA trailers, although our guide had lived in one for a while. She ended up leaving the city for about a year.
We’ll leave with some great memories, Mardi Gras beads, masks, fun hats, and trinkets.
We had no hurricanes or mint juleps and only a brief taste of sweet tea. We sure had a fun time and it was a little hard to leave. I could almost, just almost, imagine coming back for Mardi Gras.
As we were tiring of our walking tonight, after our Erin Rose visit, one of us commented, “time to go home” ….Then we realized how accurate that statement really was.
Inside the Nav, we are content with our creature comforts. Sometimes late at night, or early in the am, we can forget exactly where we are. Because inside, it always looks the same, and we are truly at home.
There is no recycling in Louisiana, I am told repeatedly. This is the first time we had to throw away recyclables, I am sorry to say. The only people so far who have composted are Miranda and Barbara. Thanks women for being enlightened. And listen to this. I asked where all the debri from Katrina destruction ended up. They just drove it out in trucks and it went all over the country to various places to be dumped. Our country has a serious trash problem…. We are trashaholics. We create it and are completely irresponsible for what happens to it when it leaves our hands. Constantly seeing trash on the side of the road is one of the low points of this trip to be sure.
3/9/10 Tuna melts in Toomsuba. We have eaten crawfish and shrimp every which way. Tonight is tuna from the Pacific northwest. We had a dreary rainy afternoon driving through Louisiana and Mississippi. It felt like it was dark at 3:30 pm… sound familiar ? We are now headed east and north. So much for our southern adventures.
Tonight is our first KOA on this trip in Toomsuba, Mississippi. It’s actually a very pretty spot on top a hill, with almost no other people around.
It has been confirmed that.. ..guess what…. no recycling in Mississippi. There was a huge mound of trash on the way to this campground and the man in charge laughed and said that was our recycling. Oh dear.
The forest here is loplolly pine. There were thunderstorms all night and little loplolly pine cones falling on the roof. Somehow, I managed to sleep 10 hours anyway.
Tim did some police commission work and we had some time to regroup a bit before heading to Nashville for more visiting.
3/11/10 Today is 10th anniversary of our first date. Corny, I know, so what ? We celebrated with a nice Italian lunch at a local Nashville bistro and a long bike ride with Tim’s brother Greg, who we are visiting. We are parked in their front yard, beside the little creek that runs through the property. Quite picturesque, as long as the creek don’t rise ( which of course it did, a little)
Today I was blessed with long talks with both Erin and Hannah on the phone. My brother Lonnie seems to have made it through yet another surgery. Tim is continuing to do his civic duty by attending police commission meetings via cell phone. He has probably worked about 4 hours today on Police Commission and Kind Tree business. He has been very good about keeping his commitments to these two organizations and also with Community Village work.
It is sometimes hard to fit in shared computer time, what with all the visiting and playing !
3/15/10 We have been on the road 6 weeks ! Yesterday, for the first time, I really just wanted to curl up on my couch on Arthur Street with my old down blanket and watch a movie ( code for falling asleep !) the weather is Tennessee is so much like the weather in Eugene; cold, wet, cloud covered sky. The hills of Tennessee are beginning to green up and we see some hints of color in the trees and forsythia, and daffodils. There are here and there some bright crocus. Hints only of spring. I know things are blooming in my yard at home.
I spoke with my brother, who is continuing to recover although still in the hospital. Today is Mary’s surgery and I so wish her well.
We completed our visit with Greg and Karen Mueller by cooking dinner with their son Peter and his family; Anna, Matthew, Andrew and Mary Emily. All three children are under 5 years old. We played rock, paper, scissors, got bean and ketchup faces, and ate chocolate chip cookies. Young families cause me to be grateful I am 58 years old. During the Nashville visit, I also got a good lesson in making some outrageous gnocchi from Italian Karen and heard some very nice jazz.
I think that Greg and Tim had a good visit. They reminisced about childhood, laughed a lot and acknowledged how alike they are in some ways. As I watched the two of them in the front yard, kicking around, I felt their parents’ presence strongly.
Unlike my own family of origin, the Mueller’s discuss politics with gusto and expression. Although there are always differences of opinion, strongly stated, it was good to see them finding some common ground with the Republicans, because after all, we are not ever going to get anywhere without some compromise.
Last night we had a short sweet visit with my cousin Karen and Chuck and their clan, Emily, Jeremy, Stephanie, Curtis and Hayden. We shared food ( tuna !) and learned a new card game, Golf. Karen’s mom and mine are sisters and live next door to each other in Ohio. It was really nice to share some good times with the Wackler’s in their lovely home.
Jane Luce Hart reminds us today on Facebook that it is Roy Settlemeyer’s birthday. Surely he would have some gray by now, if he hadn’t left for parts unknown. Love ya buddy !
Tonight we had a lovely warm fire in Smoky Mountain National Park, beside the Little River, that’s pretty darn noisy. We shared a hot toddy and M&M’s around the fire and I played Mbira in the dark. It’s so nice to have a campfire and get smoke in our eyes and all over our clothes. Chilly, will be in the 30’s tonight.
Tim’s musings around the fire. He was able to verbalize this, maybe for the first time. He feels that he was ostracized from his family his whole adult life because he could not be a Catholic. Could not be a Catholic, according to his own conscience and values. He could not continue to go to Confession as a teen and ask for forgiveness for things he had done, which in fact were not bad or even wrong, and he realized he would not ever stop doing. I encouraged him to tell his brothers and to clearly tell his parents, even though they are both deceased. It’s very sad to think that the dogma of any religion could cause so much pain in someone’s life. Yet it happens to people all the time.
Nel
This is me in the cemetary with Mother Theresa, and at the cool corn fence.